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Alpine News Flash

17 May 2011



PYB instructor and trainee British Mountain guide Dave Evans has just returned from a very successful trip to the Alps, during which he made ascents of the classic ice route .Fil a Plomb. on the North Face of the Rognon du Plan, an early British ascent of the .Richard Cranium Memorial. route on the beautiful North Face of Les Droites, a Ski descent from the summit of the Aiguille d.Argentiere down the Millieu Couloir, and culminating in an ascent of the famous 1938 Route on the Eiger.s majestic North Face.

The weather and conditions for the ascent of the Eiger were perfect with only a few hours of cloud during the evening. Dave climbed the route with Scotsman and ex PYB instructor Mark Chadwick, and Dutchman Roeland Van Oss, also a trainee guide on the German scheme. The team spent one night on the face, on a platform at the start of the famous .Traverse of the Gods., before continuing up, reaching the summit just after midday on day two.

At the top of the face the route joins the classic Mittellegi ridge, which the team followed for a few minutes to reach the amazing summit, with incredible views across the central Oberland Plateau. After soaking up the sun for quarter of an hour(a luxury rarely afforded on an Alpine North face!), they descended the Normal West Flank route, which in the prevailing conditions was easy but very alarming, with a slip almost certainly being fatal! They reached the station at Eigergletscher at 4pm and hopped on the train back to Grindelwald tired but very happy!






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