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Top Tips From Plas y Brenin Instructors and Coaches



Climbing Top Tips

Climbing Slate

by Baggy Richards



Clad in my rainbow lycra tights (well this is what my hero Andy Pollit wore back in the 80's) I set off up my first slate route, 'Seamstress' (HVS 5a).......




Early Season Cragging

by Paul Warnock



So you have been training all winter on a campus board or down at your local climbing wall. If you are feeling strong why not start the season on a hi.......




Rigging a Fixed Abseil Rope for Sea Cliff Climbing

by Simon Colley



Most climbers take a separate rope when they need to abseil into sea cliffs. This means that they don't have to abseil on their climbing ropes, and th.......




Keeping Multi-Pitch Belays Tangle Free

by Simon Colley



Avoiding tangled ropes takes concentration and self discipline. But it's well worth the effort. Here are a few of my favourite tips to help avoid prob.......




Off-Widthing

by Tim Neill



To some, the inexplicable strenuousness of the wider fissure is strangely compulsive, lacking the predictability of more conventional features. It's a.......




Retreating Off a Route

by Louise Thomas



Here are some simple but effective tips to help you when you're retreating off a route........




Racking Your Gear

by Ian Boorman



How you carry your gear on your harness is a very personal thing. Below are just a few tips that I feel help when multi pitch climbing........




Coiling a Rope

by Ian Boorman



There are many ways of coiling a rope and it does not have to be a complicated affair. So, to stop your rope getting into a tangled mess, I have found.......




Egressing Sea Cliffs

by Mark Reeves



Somewhere above is the rock, below me snapping at my ankles are line after line of charging white horses. I am in space twixt the devil and the deep b.......




Perform a Pre-Season Kit Check

by Dave Brown



It may sound obvious but it's important to check your kit before you go climbing. At the beginning of the season I recommend a thorough kit check, par.......




Climbing Sea Stacks

by Baggy Richards



For me climbing near the sea is a magical and exciting experience. The blend of sea, wind, wildlife and remote situations make it a special place to c.......




Retreating off a crag

by Baggy Richards



If you are a Multi Pitch climber, then at some stage you will probably have to retreat off a crag. This maybe due to bad weather, lack of daylight or .......




Sea Cliff Climbing (Part Two)

by Martin Chester



I vividly remember, as an enthusiastic teenager, my first visit to Swanage. Jonny and I abseiled in to Boulder ruckle (down marmolata buttress) not t.......




Sea Cliff Climbing (Part One)

by Martin Chester



Climbing over the sea has its own unique atmosphere. It is committing, exciting and beautiful in equal measure. Every climber should experience the ma.......




Retrieving Stuck Nuts

by Tim Neill



Have you seen the price of nuts these days? Leaving a jammed wire not only leaves a hole in your pocket but robs the next leader of a truly true onsig.......




Safety Tips For The Novice Climber

by Louise Thomas



These essential safety tips should help novice climbers get into good habits early on........




Photography For Climbers

by Mark Reeves



With the advent of small digital cameras the amount of photos you take is no longer dictated by the price of film and development. Instead you can now.......




Rock Shoes

by Mike Raine



Here are a few general tips on rock shoes.......




The Rack

by Mike Raine



Here are a few general tips on the rack........




Wear A Helmet

by Mike Raine



To some people wearing a helmet may seem like an 'uncool' thing to do but there are more very good reasons to wear one than you think. Here are a few .......




Using Chalk

by Mike Raine



These days too many people splash chalk around without a care in the world. Here are a few of my tips on how to be a little more conservative and cons.......




Lowering Off A Bolted Route

by Ben Lawes



Lowering off at the top of a bolted route and retrieving your rope without leaving any kit behind can be a potentially fatal manoeuvre. The following .......




Taking a Friend Climbing

by Baggy Richards



Every climber finds him or herself in a position where they want, or are expected to take a friend climbing. Often this means taking a complete beginn.......




Removing Jammed Equipment

by Ian Hey



If nuts or cams get jammed on single pitch crags the easiest solution is often to finish the climb then arrange a suitable belay and abseil down to th.......




Deep Water Soloing

by Ruth Taylor



Here are some top tips to keep you safe and having fun when the deep water soloing season arrives........




Climbing As a Three (Part Two)

by Carlo Forte



Following on from my initial tips on climbing as a three, here I will focus on the stance. If you are going to get in a tangle it is likely to happen .......




Climbing As a Three (Part One)

by Carlo Forte



Climbing as three can be fantastically sociable. There is some one there to share conversation with whilst on a stance and having another opinion when.......




Slick Changeovers on Chances

by Keith Ball



Efficient stance management is useful on long multi pitch routes as it saves time, giving you more time for climbing rather than faffing with ropes! I.......





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