A chat with Phil and Claire led by Will Nicholls
In our minds, exploring the Scottish Highlands in winter is as good as it gets. The landscapes are rugged and beautiful and the days out are adventurous, memorable and good for the soul. But don’t take our word for it!
We’ve had the pleasure of Phil and Claire’s company on our Scottish winter courses for the last few years. We sat down to ask them a few questions about their experiences, so here’s their take on it ..
Can you describe the most rewarding day you’ve experienced in the winter?
Phil: There have been a few actually – Crowberry Gully in perfect condition when the ‘Beast from the East’ had finally brought great winter conditions to Scotland. Tower Ridge a couple of years ago was a great tick as well. A long day, but we had the fitness to move efficiently. Beinn Dorain in glorious sunshine – like being in the Alps!
Claire: A traverse of the Aonach Eagach – such good weather and teams, Tower Ridge, Crowberry Gully, Ledge Route, Ballachulish Horseshoe, Dorsal Arête and Curved Ridge.
And the most challenging?
Phil: Every route that’s done in less-than-ideal weather is challenging as you have to manage your comfort levels on cold and windy belay stances. We did Eas Aine (an ice climb) in difficult conditions a few years ago, and when we topped out we had to crawl on hands and knees to find shelter from the wind. A great route though, and well worth it as these days it’s not often in condition.
Claire: Eas Aine, you and Dave Evans were there – a great one-off! It was outside my technical comfort zone – I think Dave pulled me up!
(Instructor Dave says Claire’s doing herself a disservice and danced up it!)
What is it about the Highlands in winter that compels you to return each year?
Phil: I like the challenge of going out each day and not knowing what to expect, but also knowing that I have the experience now to manage whatever comes along. The variability in the conditions is actually part of the appeal.
Claire: The Highlands are a good alternative to a skiing holiday; the conditions are just as reliable or variable as skiing. It’s good skill and fitness training for the Alps. We wouldn’t be able to do those routes just on our own – we value and trust the instruction. It’s a really nice place to stay, with good company, so it’s a proper holiday as well.
Do you have any specific winter objectives, whether routes, journeys or summits?
Phil: I’ve always wondered if I could manage to climb the Orion Face but it’s very demanding as it’s so long.
Claire: It’s always difficult, as it has to flex depending on the weather. I like having the opportunity to climb in crampons if it comes up. I enjoy winter scrambling and ridges if it’s not too windy! No fixed targets for me.
(Yes Phil, you could climb Orion Face!)
You’ve climbed extensively in the Alps, how does climbing in the Scottish Highlands compare?
Phil: In the Alps you tend to only go out if the weather is fine and conditions are stable. In Scotland it is accepted that things are constantly changing and you just have to adapt plans accordingly but still go and do something. When you’ve been freezing your socks off on the Ben it can seem like a completely different experience climbing an alpine route in bright sunshine. The core skills translate well though: having a clothing system that keeps you comfortable, moving efficiently to make good time, being aware of hazards like loose rock, snow conditions, weather, etc.
Claire: Scotland has been the best preparation for the Alps. Routes vary conditions-wise so I’ve unexpectedly had to gully climb, front point on ice, down climb in mixed terrain, snow and ice, down climbing through wet snow and stand on tiny belays. It’s good to have the confidence that you’ve done this before and had instruction. Sometimes the weather in the Alps is poor, summits are cold, and an alpine start means setting off in the dark. It’s no shock as I tell myself “I’ve done this in Scotland” (but usually in worse conditions!). I’ve also gone each year with the confidence that I can do long days with a winter weight pack and am fit, so once acclimatised it’s enjoyable.
What’s the single-most useful or important thing you’ve learnt in the winter mountains?
Phil: Always take several pairs of gloves! There is nothing worse than cold hands and if it persists it is going to become more serious.
Claire: Avalanche awareness! Which has been relevant in the Alps as well. I second Phil as well – learning how to keep your hands warm and choosing the correct gloves for what you’re doing.
What do you enjoy most at the end of the day when you return to our hotel?
Phil: A hot shower, tea and cake, a nice three-course meal and some good conversation with like-minded people. Also knowing my kit will be dry for the following day thanks to the drying room!
Claire: I totally agree, Phil – knowing there’s tea and cake, nice rooms and excellent food. Table service is perfect – you don’t even have to move! The icing on the cake is chatting with like-minded people and the round tables in the dining room ensure plenty of good chat. It’s often the people that make the whole trip, instructors included. I have met several great teammates and made lots of friends. It’s never in doubt that we’ll have a good time when booking.
Many thanks to Phil and Claire for taking the time to answer our questions, and for their company on many special winter adventures. And, quite appropriately, the first snows have just graced the summits of the Highlands. Here’s to another winter of adventures…”
