Lissie is our Head of Governance at PYB – and she finally escaped from her office in amazing style. She joined one of our Embark Sea Kayak expeditions to Greenland this summer.
If you want to make a big step like that feel more manageable, click on the button below to join our Expedition Symposium in the Autumn.
For more than 20 years, my partner, Olly Sanders, has travelled to Greenland on sea kayaking expeditions. Despite telling me on at least two previous occasions that “this will be my last trip”, I had a feeling that Plas y Brenin’s Embark to Greenland 2026 expedition really would be his final journey there.
One of the things that makes the Embark programme so unique is that it is open to people with little or no previous experience of adventurous activities. That was certainly true for two of my friends from my hometown of Leicester, Ruth, and Kimberley. Ruth had done some sea kayaking before, but Kimberley was completely new to it. Inspired by years of hearing Olly’s stories and seeing his photographs from Greenland, they decided it was somewhere they simply had to experience for themselves.
Until then, I hadn’t seriously considered going. Greenland was always somewhere that Olly disappeared off to during the summer, returning with incredible stories and photographs of icebergs, mountains, and remote Arctic communities. It felt like his world, not mine. But there was no way Ruth and Kimberley were going without me, and I am incredibly grateful that they persuaded me to join them.
We put a lot of effort into our application forms to secure a place on the trip and were delighted when we were selected. Joining us were George Manley, one of Olly’s oldest friends, and Hen and Dom, a mother and son, completing our group of six.
Our journey to Greenland began long before we boarded a plane. As part of the Embark programme, we met for four training weekends at Plas y Brenin, starting in October 2025 and culminating in an overnight camping expedition in May 2026. These weekends gave us the opportunity to develop the skills we would need for Greenland, but perhaps more importantly, they allowed us to get to know one another.
For some members of the group, many of the activities were completely new experiences. Two people had never camped before, yet they approached every challenge with enthusiasm and a willingness to learn. Whether we were practising paddling skills, packing kit, or cooking outdoors, confidence grew with every weekend.
One of the things that surprised me most was how quickly we bonded as a group. We came from different backgrounds, with different levels of experience and different reasons for wanting to go to Greenland, but by the end of the training weekends we already felt like a team. There was plenty of laughter, lots of encouragement and the growing sense that we were about to share something very special.
By the time July 2026 arrived, Greenland no longer felt like a distant dream. After months of preparation, anticipation, and the occasional nervous moment, it was finally time to set off for the Arctic.
Over the years, I had seen countless photographs of Greenland, particularly the spectacular landscapes of the north-west. Yet nothing could have prepared me for the reality of seeing it with my own eyes. As we approached Upernavik, the first icebergs appeared in the water below us, dwarfing the colourful houses scattered across the rocky islands and immediately giving a sense of the immense scale of the landscape. The silence, the space and the sheer beauty of the place had a far greater impact on me than I ever anticipated. Within moments of arriving, I realised that Greenland was going to be much more than just another adventure. It was going to be an experience that would stay with me forever.
On arrival, we spent a day packing food and equipment, loading the boats, and making the final preparations for our expedition. It was exciting to see everything come together after months of training and anticipation. By the end of the day, the kayaks were packed, the group was ready, and the adventure we had been talking about for so long was finally about to begin.
What had originally been planned as a ten-day expedition would eventually be shortened to eight days because of an incoming storm, but as we launched from Upernavik the following morning, none of that mattered. We were simply excited to be heading out into one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.
The first three days were spent making our way towards a campsite that would put us in the perfect position to explore the Ice fjord. Each day brought new views of rugged mountains, remote islands, and ice-strewn waters.
Life on expedition quickly settled into a rhythm. We paddled, unloaded boats, pitched tents, ate and repeated the process the next day. Months of training together at Plas y Brenin paid off as everyone slipped naturally into their role and worked together seamlessly.
Camping in such a remote environment was a special experience in itself. With no roads, no traffic and often no sign of another person, it felt as though we had a small corner of Greenland entirely to ourselves.
When we finally reached our campsite close to the entrance to the Ice fjord, the effort of getting there felt more than worthwhile. Before us lay a constantly changing landscape of icebergs drifting silently through the fjord, some towering high above the water and glowing brilliant shades of white and blue in the Arctic light.
We spent the next two days exploring the Ice fjord, and for me these were among the most magical moments of the entire trip. Paddling amongst icebergs of every shape and size felt almost surreal. One moment we would be admiring the shape and colour of the ice and the next we would hear the thunderous crack of an iceberg shifting somewhere nearby.
Adding to the sense of wonder was a humpback whale that seemed to adopt our campsite. For three days it remained in the area, regularly surfacing within sight of camp and while we were out on the water. Seeing it for the first time was unforgettable, but the real privilege was being able to watch it repeatedly over several days. It became a familiar part of our Arctic surroundings.
Equally memorable was the sound of the ice itself. The fjord was alive with creaks, groans and the occasional thunderous crack as icebergs shifted and calved around us. Sometimes the noise would echo across the water before we could even locate its source. It was both awe-inspiring and humbling, a powerful reminder that this extraordinary landscape is constantly moving and changing.
Whilst staying at this campsite, we couldn’t resist the temptation of taking a dip in the Arctic waters. Although it was brief, it was certainly memorable. The water was every bit as cold as you would expect, fresh from the surrounding glaciers, and there was very little hesitation once we had committed ourselves. There were plenty of laughs, a few shocked expressions, and a rapid retreat back onto dry land, but it was one of those experiences that felt like an essential part of the adventure.
Looking back, there was something rather special about swimming in such an extraordinary setting. It perfectly captured the spirit of the expedition: stepping outside your comfort zone and embracing experiences you never imagined having.
After five days of relatively sunny and dry weather, the conditions began to change. The rain arrived first, followed by hail and snow, and the temperature dropped noticeably. It was a timely reminder that, despite its beauty, Greenland is a place where nature is firmly in charge.
This was when the teamwork we had developed over months of training really came into its own. We worked together to land the boats, unload equipment, and pitch tents before everything became soaked. Nobody complained. Everyone simply got on with the job, helping each other and keeping spirits high despite the deteriorating weather.
With a significant storm forecast, our plans changed and we began making our way back towards Upernavik. The sea conditions became more challenging and the paddling more demanding, but the group rose to the occasion. On our eighth and final day, we faced a long paddle to ensure we reached Upernavik before the worst of the weather arrived.
As we approached Upernavik, there was a mixture of relief, pride, and sadness that the expedition was coming to an end. We had travelled through one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth, paddled amongst icebergs, shared a campsite with a humpback whale, and experienced a small glimpse of life in the Arctic.
Before this trip, Greenland was simply a place I’d heard stories about. Now it has become one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I came away with a deeper appreciation of wild places, greater confidence in my own abilities and memories that will stay with me for many years to come.
For years, Greenland was somewhere Olly went. After experiencing it for myself, I finally understand why he kept returning.
What made the expedition truly special, however, was the people I shared it with. From our first training weekend at Plas y Brenin to our final paddle back into Upernavik, we supported, encouraged, and laughed with one another every step of the way. The friendships formed during the trip are every bit as memorable as the places we visited.
Finally, thank you to Olly Sanders and George Shaw. Their experience, encouragement and hard work made this adventure possible. Throughout the expedition they shared not only their knowledge but also their obvious love of Greenland. I feel incredibly fortunate to have experienced this remarkable place alongside them and to have shared it with such a wonderful group of people. The memories, friendships and experiences from this journey will stay with me for many years to come.
