Embark: Snake river Northern Yukon territory
A year ago, Olly Sandeman was flipping through the pages of a guidebook, “Best Canoe Trips in Canada,” when he came across the Snake River—300 kilometres of Grade 2/3 whitewater carving its way through the vast wilderness of the Northern Yukon Mackenzie Mountains.
After some research, we decided to offer the trip as part of PYB’s Embark expedition series. These trips are coached expeditions, complete with training weekends and supported prep sessions to get a team ready. Five canoeists soon signed up for the adventure of a lifetime. The training weekend was a two-day mini-expedition focused on tandem whitewater skills, river-running strategies, and the specific skills needed for an expedition, like loading and paddling heavy boats. We also practiced essential campcraft and learned how to live safely in the wilderness and handle potential wildlife encounters.
The journey to the Snake River is a long one. It began with a flight from the UK to Vancouver, then another two-hour flight north to Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. From there, it was a five-hour drive to the small town of Mayo, where we boarded a floatplane for an hour-and-a-half flight even further north to Duo Lakes. This final leg was a spectacular flight through the mountains, where the sheer scale of the wilderness truly set in. Once we landed, the roar of the floatplane faded, and we were left with the quiet understanding of just how alone we were.
The first night was surreal. We’d assembled our boats under the 24-hour daylight and watched a caribou swim across the lake. The next morning, reality set in: an 11-day portage over a two-kilometre trail. Four gruelling hours later, with all our gear on the other side, we ate a hurried lunch and launched our heavy, loaded boats into the river.
The river was a swift, narrow creek, the first few kilometres a slalom through overhanging trees and bushes. We were still finding our rhythm as a group, but the river gradually widened, becoming a boulder-strewn gauntlet. We paddled kilometre after kilometre through stunning forests, catching glimpses of the distant mountain range. It was a constant struggle to focus on the water in front of us when the scenery was so breathtaking. The real test came 15 kilometres in—a tight gorge with 90-degree bends pressed against a steep cliff. A single mistake, a swim, and we could easily pin a boat or get hurt. We were a long way from help.
As the days passed, the river’s whitewater pushed us forward, and the views became even more spectacular. We glided past the towering peaks of Mount Macdonald, our camps marked by the footprints of wolf, caribou, moose, and bear. We were vigilant, camping with our food and cooking gear far from our tents and a tripwire alarm to alert us to any night time visitors.
By day eight, we left the mountains behind. The river gained volume and speed as we entered the lower section of the Peel River. The intense concentration we’d needed for days gave way to a newfound relaxation. We rounded bends to see moose, watched bald and golden eagles soar overhead, and were constantly entertained by the beavers that swam in front of our camp.
On day 11, we reached the final stretch and joined the vast Peel River, a legendary waterway that meets other famous rivers like the Bonnet Plume and the Wind. We approached our take-out at the “Taco Bar” (which, disappointingly, had neither tacos nor a bar) and met other groups who had completed their own journeys. Our final night was spent around the campfire, sipping the last of the whisky and, of course, watching more beavers. The last morning was a blur of packing as we awaited the floatplane.
The Embark expedition to the Snake wasn’t just a trip; it was a bucket-list journey shared with incredible people in an incredible place. My gratitude to UpNorth Adventures for the Esquif canoe hire, Peak PS for the amazing gear, and to Bill, Sian, Mark, Sharon, and Carol for being the best possible team.
