Pete Herd

November 7, 2023
|By admin

Early Life

I grew up in Northern Scotland where I felt a natural affinity with adventure sport. I had quite a traditional ‘apprenticeship’ in that it started with the hills: snowboarding, fell running and carrying my mountain bike up local Munros. This developed into scrambling and when I went to Uni, summer trad climbing became the focus. Naturally this segued into winter climbing too. We all learned a lot during those formative years. I enjoyed the social aspects of climbing and got some experience of responsibility with the uni club, so I thought I could make it my job too.

 

My career began…

in climbing walls and with local schools kids. I wanted to specialise in climbing  and on the advice of a few more experienced friends,  moved to North Wales to work on the Plas y Brenin ‘AI’ scheme. Fast forward a few years and I’ve ‘settled down’ in North Wales. I’m now a part time member of the the instructional team, specialising in climbing and mountain sports. I work year round on most of the skills courses and a few of the qualification ones.

 

Adventure-wise

I’m keen on new experiences and partnership. I  like aesthetic lines and cool textures. I like the alchemy of putting it all together – the planning, the training the anticipation, the event. I like conspiratorially devouring a bag of sweets on a belay ledge and waiting for the sugar rush to take the mind off cramping arms. I like the quietness of focus and the rawness of an all out scrap.

 

 

Achievements 

  • Graduating from Uni.
  • My first outdoor job. My then employer saw something in me he thought worth fostering. We’re still mates.
  • Getting on the ‘AI’ scheme and passing the MIA (now MCI).
  • Buying a house and getting a job.
  • All the trips climbing, biking and hanging out in cool places with my partner, Amy.
  • Scottish trip to the states questing about in an RV. Wide eyed and learning to jam quickly at Indian Creek, Castleton Tower, Moonlight Buttress, Rainbow Wall.
  • Bikepacking trips through the Scottish mountains. Testing ‘hike-a-bikes’ and big descents.
  • The stars (finally) alligning and getting to climb Parralell B and Polyphemus  gullies, V,5,  on Lochnagar in the same day.
  • Winter Cuillin Ridge. An opportunistic skip along with my pal Lou. Crisp snow aretes, squeeky neve, light and free.
  • Any of the trad scraps where I’ve really tested my tenacity and climbing skill. It’s happened at almost every grade.
  • Catching the top of the crag on the first ascent of Hyperborea, E7 7a. Finding it, feeling inspired, working it alone, injury, doubt, falling off the top on redpoint, the supportive partners.
  • The Disposessed E7 6c, Ogwen. A serendipitous belay from Tim, just before the door slammed shut for the season.
  • Climbing my first font 8A, a cool arete in the Ogwen valley. I set a goal, trained hard and put the time in.
  • Trips to Taghia with a load of mates. Utterly compelling doable-in-a-day climbs on perfect rock in a wicked place.

 

Aspirations

I’d be stoked to do more of the same really. Keep going with what motivates me at the time. I’ve been surfing and biking a bit recently so hope to continue enjoying those too. More ice climbing in the winter months would be nice. I’d like to further develop my coaching too.